Taro Sushi

I haven't yet made it to Brooklyn's new Kappa Sake House or Zuzu Ramen (well, the latter isn't open until Tuesday, March 10 - it will offer novelties like green curry ramen as well as sake and beer). But I always enjoy the sake and sushi at Taro Sushi. I was first introduced to this Japanese gem by a Park Slope family whom I'll call The Olives. The Olives have two little girls who are rapidly broadening their palates at Taro. Tonight, they feasted on inside-out California rolls and shrimp tempura maki topped with rainbows of avocado and smoked salmon. But when one of the girls clamored for an item not on the menu (a bowl of plain tofu cubes), the waiter happily obliged.

I started my meal with a dish of chopped toro tartare, raw quail egg and lots of wasabi, and continued with two preparations of freshwater eel: plain with sea salt, and lightly sauced. Then I savored some yellowtail belly topped a white onion sauce, and an assertive mackerel slice. All of the fish was outstandingly fresh and presented with care.

But there was more than just sushi on the menu. The hot appetizer selection included such delicacies as simmered pork ribs and miso-cooked pork stomach. Mama Olive craved noodles, so she devoured a bowl of hot soba with spinach, seaweed and scallions. (I think she'll probably bring the Olive girls to Zuzu when it opens.)

Diners of all ages will enjoy Taro Sushi.

Taro Sushi: 446 Dean St., Brooklyn, (718) 398-0872.